Ingredient Glossary
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Azulene (Guaiazulene) - Deep blue crystalline substance extracted from the essential oil of matricaria and chamomile flowers. It is known for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and soothing effects.
Algae Extract (Laminaria digita) - Alginates are found in seaweed and are rich in vital mineral and trace elements. They present a strong moisturizing effect on the skin along with firming and stimulating properties.
Almond Oil (Sweet Almond Oil) - Fatty oil of sweet almond, obtained by cold pressing. Odorless, ultra-fine, pale yellow oil. Used in high quality cosmetic products, it fortifies the skin.
Allantoin - Soothing, non-irritating compound found in living tissue and obtained primarily from various types of roots. Allantoin stimulates cell renewal and encourages cell regeneration. It is reported to be highly desensitizing and astringent. In cosmetic preparations it is used to treat sun-bum, acne, irritations, reddening and inflammation.
Aloe Barbadensis Gel - Gelatinous, sometimes pulpy extract of the aloe vera leaf, it is rich in amino acids, enzymes and various mineral salts. It is moisture-binding, promotes cell structure, smoothes and soothes and supports the tissue's ability to utilize other active ingredients.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) - Substance found in various fruits and milk that diminishes corneocyte cohesion that affects the thickness of the stratum corneum. Tartaric acid is found in grapes; malic acid in apples; lactic acid from soured milk; glycolic acid from sugar cane.
Althea (Althea officinalis) Extract - Obtained from wild mallow or marshmallow and known for its soothing properties.
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate - Mild surfactant derived from natural coconut alcohols.
Angelica Root (Angelica pubescens) - Contains volatile oils and flavanoids with warming properties. It is known for its anti-inflammatory properties.
Apricot Kernel Oil - Rich oil that contains a high linoleic acid content and is rich in vitamin E. It is non-greasy and assists the skin in retaining its elasticity.
Arnica (Arnica Montana) Extract - Perennial herb native to mountainous regions of Europe. It is known as an anti-inflammatory and has immunostimulant properties that is beneficial in wound healing. Used in a tincture or salve for external application to sprains and bruises. Used in anti-dandruff shampoos.
Ascorbic Acid - (See Vitamin C)
Ascorbyl Glucosamine - Polyelectrolyte composed of ascorbic acid and polyglucosamine whereby L-ascorbic acid is contained in a polyglucosamine- ascorbate complex. The L-ascorbic acid is protected in this complex until it reaches the skin at which time it is released into the skin cells.
Aloe Extract - Oil soluble extract of the aloe vera plant or any other member of the aloe family, known for their hydrating and soothing properties.
Apple (Pyrus malus) Extract - Mixed fruit acid high in alpha hydroxy content.
Avocado Oil - Extracted from the avocado fruit which consists of between 6 and 25% oil. A light viscous oil with color nuances ranging form light brown to green. It is high in vitamins A, B, D, E, lecithin and phytosterol which makes it well suited for skin care. Its high content of linoleic and oleic acids renders it most appropriate for dry and flaky skin.
Bentonite - Effective drawing clay used in facial masques.
Butchers Broom (Ruscus aculeatus) Extract - Root extract known to protect capillaries, reduces redness and relieves pain.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) Oil - Herb native to Europe, India and the U.S. A volatile oil containing dlinalool and methyl chavicol. Has carminative, stimulating, diuretic effects. A flavoring and aromatic.
Butylparaben - Used in cosmetics as an antifungal preservative. The ester of butyl alcohol and p-hydroxyben-zoic acid.
BHA (Butylated Hyroxyanisole) - Preservative and antioxidant used to prevent rancidity in formulations having high oil content. It is used in conjunction with BHT.
Balm of Gilead (Commiphora Gileadensis) - Aromatic leaves of small African or Asian evergreen trees. Known to be soothing medication for skin. Used for fragrance in perfumes.
Bergamot (Citrus aurantium bergamia) Oil - Direct result of cold expression from peel of fresh, nearly ripe fruit. Contains approximately 300 compounds in the oil including terpenes. Used as an aromatic.
Beta Carotene - Substance found in all plants. Extracted as red crystals or crystalline powder. It is the primary coloring matter in carrots, butter and egg yolks and is used to color cosmetics. Precursor to Vitamin A.
Beta Glucan - Substance which enhances natural protection, moisturizes, balances and provides cellular renewal. Provides antioxidant support and stimulates natural immunity. Sourced from the yeast cell wall and in oat extracts.
Bisabolol - Constituent found in true (German) chamomile. Also found in myrrh-type resin obtained from African trees. Known for its bactericidal and fungicidal activities, pain-relieving, wound-healing, antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.
Cassia (Cinnamomum aromaticum) Oil - Natural essential oil obtained by steam distillation of the leaves, bark, and twigs. Known for its warming and stimulating properties and to be antibacterial, anti-viral, anti-spasmodic and stabilizing for the central nervous system. It is used for its spicy, awakening fragrance in perfumes, alleviates pain, colds and calms the nerves.
Cascara Sagrada (Rhamnus purshiana) Extract - Natural extract derived from the reddish-brown bark of the Cascara Sagrada tree. When the bark is removed from the tree it must be stored in large warehouses for about a year before it can be used. Known for its purging properties.
Cone Flower - See Echinacea
Castor (Ricinus communis) Oil - Heavy, natural nut oil possessing high gloss and tack. Used primarily in lipsticks and foundations. Also used in bath oil, nail polish remover, solid perfumes, face masques and shaving crèmes.
Citric Acid - Naturally occurring acid in citric fruits and used to adjust the pH of products. One of the most used acids in cosmetics.
Cocamide DEA - Coconut oil derived surfactant with excellent foaming and cleansing properties. Used as a foam-stabilizer in surfactant systems.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine - Coconut derivative with excellent cleansing and conditioning properties. Due to its characteristics, it is very mild and is used to decrease surfactant irritations. Has good foaming and antiseptic characteristics.
Caramel - An amber color obtained by heating glucose and adding
small quantities of alkali or trace minerals. Used as a coloring agent
in cosmetics and as a soothing agent in skin lotions.
Calendula Officinalis Extract (marigold) - Anti-inflammatory, immunomodulating, wound-healing; stimulates granulation at wound site (increases glycoprotein, nucleoprotein and collagen metabolism at site); anti-bacterial; antifungal; antiviral; antiparasitic.
Carrot Oil - Oily extract of carrot seeds and contains their fat-soluble active ingredients, especially carotene, which has a balancing effect and assures better circulation for the skin. Possesses a spicy odor and is used as a coloring as well, in liquors, flavorings and perfumes.
Chromium Oxide Green - Coloring. See Chromium Compounds.
Chromium Compounds - Oxides, minerals. Used as a pigment cosmetics.
Camphor (Cinnomonum camphora) - Fragrant crystals or thick oil from the Cinnomonum camphor tree requires at least 50 years of growth to produce this odorous material. It is warming, fragrant acrid to taste. Known to be astringent, antibacterial, stimulates central nervous system, stimulates blood and energy circulation. Used for stomachache, traumatic injuries, arthritis, muscle aches, insect repellent, sore throat. Has a refreshing and slightly disinfecting effect.
Carrot (Daucus carota sativa) Extract - Water-soluble extract powder form, prepared from fresh carrots by a process which protects the natural ingredients. Used in skin care preparations for its regenerating properties. Source of beta carotene, pro-vitamin A. Also used as a natural vegetable coloring.
Cetyl Alcohol - Emollient, emulsion stabilizer which has the appearance of a waxy, crystalline solid. Used in many cosmetic preparation including baby lotion, hand lotion, shampoos, mascara and hair straighteners.
Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) - Roman chamomile is a strongly fragrant perennial with small flowers. The oil has bactericidal and fungicidal activities. Chamazulene, a major component of the oil, has pain-relieving, wound-healing, antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Coconut Oil - White, semi-solid, highly saturated fat that is expressed from the kernels of the coconut. Has a defatting or "stripping" effect on the skin which is overcome by using coconut oil derived from esters rather than the oil itself. Surfactants derived from coconut oil have good cleansing properties and are generally known to be mild. Used in baby shampoos, cleansers and shaving lathers, body and facial cleansers.
Collagen (hydrolyzed) - Collagen forms up to 70% of the dermis layer. In aging, collagen is reduced. Native soluble collagen stimulates the formation of new collagenic fibrillae and triggers regeneration of the skin. Collagen is chemically bonded to water hence, the moisture supplied by it persists for some time. Skin condition is improved through increased elasticity and higher moisture content.
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) Extract - Perennial herb that is rich in allantoin. Reported to have anti-inflammatory, astringent, emollient, hemostatic and expectorant properties. Its stimulating and regenerative properties foster growth of healthy tissue.
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) Extract - Taken from the fruit of the vine and is used as an astringent. Known for its soothing, decongesting and softening properties. Has a pleasant aroma and imparts a cool feeling to the skin.
Cyclomethicone - Volatile silicone fluid with good initial spreadability and emollience. It is not tacky nor sticky.
Centella asiatica - (see Gotu Kola)
Cornflower Extract - Obtained from the flowers. Known for its soothing, hydrating and softening properties.
Cocoa (Theobroma cocao) Butter - Prepared from roasted and peeled cocoa beans, the warm-pressed fat is yellow and solid. Contains triglycerides of fatty acids, primarily oleic, stearic, and palmitic as well as the essential fatty acids linoleic and arachidonic. Highly suitable in skin care preparations since it softens and melts at the body temperature. Natural emollient that is highly skin compatible, softens and lubricates.
Disodium Laureth Sulfocuccinate - High foaming surfactant that has been used successfully in shampoos, baths and baby preparations.
DNA - Deoxy Ribonucleic Acid, a principal element of the dermis and epidermis for reconstruction of healthy skin cells. Stimulates protein synthesis in the germinative layer. Known to reduce irritation, refine and tighten the skin.
Dimethicone - Silicone fluid used for its superior spreadability, excellent emollience, skin-friendliness and water repellent characteristics.
Deionized Water - Water that has been propelled through active resin beds to remove metallic ions, exposed to ultraviolet light to kill micro-organisms and filtered through a submicron filter to further remove impurities.
Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis) - Obtained from the seed that contains fixed oil (primrose), essential fatty acids, i.e., linolenic acid, oleic palmitic and stearic acid and steroids and other minute constituents. In skin care cream, it balances the lipid deficiencies in the skin normalizing skin permeability. Used extensively in the UK. See Willowherb
Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) - Also known as coneflower and snakeroot. Topically it is used as an agent to treat boils, insect bites and eczema. It has purifying qualities and is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and soothing.
Fibronectin - Natural glycoprotein, the organizing protein in the dermal matrix, which reinforces dermis cohesion. Known cellular strengthener and cellular regenerator that provides firming, toning, protection and moisture to the skin.
Fucus (Fucus vesibulosus) - Brown seaweed. Contains condensed polysaccharides with (65%) concentration of alginic acid (18-28% of the dry matter) capable of absorbing hundred times it own water weight. Rich in mineral substances, iodine in particular, and vitamins. The abundance of polysaccharides, organic and mineral iodine, vitamins, have moisturizing, revitalizing, detoxifying and slimming properties. According to some research, there is antibacterial activity due to the squalane content.
Glyceryl Stearate - Mono-ester of glycerin and stearic acid. An emollient and emulsifier.
Glycoproteins - Biotechnologically-derived oligopeptide specialty. Said to be highly stimulating to cell respiration and boosts the skin's immune system.
Guaizulene (azulene) - Deep blue crystalline substance extracted from the essential oil of matricaria and chamomile flowers. Known for its skin-soothing, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antispasmodic properties.
Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) Oil - Perennial plant with fragrant leaves rich in tannins. Peported to have antifungal and astringent properties.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale) - Perennial herb. Ginger oil is produced from fresh ground, unpeeled, dried ginger and is warming and aromatic. Extracts are produced from dried unpeeled ginger. Has carminative (digestive aid) properties due to its high protease content which may have applications similar to those of papain or other plant proteases. Has stimulating properties and reported to be used in treating burns.
Ginseng (Panax ginseng Japanese) Extract - Perennial herb containing saponins and polysaccharides. Known for its stimulatory effect raising mental and physical capacity. Has remedial effect on radiation sickness. Decreases sensitivity to stress, promotes biosynthesis of cholesterol, lipid, RNA, DNA, and protein.
Glycerin - Sweet, viscous, hygroscopic alcohol that occurs naturally in the combined forms of glycerides. Recovered in the manufacture of soaps from fats. Used as a lubricant.
Glycolic acid - Smallest molecular structure of an alpha hydroxy acid found in sugar cane. Water-soluble. Used to control the acid/alkali balance in cosmetics. Glycolic acid is known for improving the horny layer disturbances, activating the skin's regenerative processes, increasing moisture-binding capacity, and enhancing elasticity. Some research indicates it is able to activate collagen formation and reduce age spots.
Grapefruit (Citrus grandis) Oil - Volatile oil obtained from the pulp of grapes. Contains monoterpenes, hydrocarbons, limonene and sesquiterpenes. Reported to be a lymphatic stimulant, nourishes the tissue cells, stimulates bile secretion and controls liquid processes in the body. Has an astringent effect on the skin. Also used in fragrance.
Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) - From a deciduous tree; externally, used as a poultice for healing of sores. In skin care formulas reported to protect capillaries and impede redness.
Grape Seed Extract - See OPC-50
Green Tea ( Camellia oleifera) - General scientific consensus is that green tea contains far more antioxidant agents than black tea. When topically applied, has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. Source: Japan & China.
Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica) (Brahmi leaf) - Extract obtained from a perennial found in Asia. Parts used are the fresh dried leaves, above ground herb, or whole herb with root. Used in wound-healing and supports strengthening of the tissues. Promotes keratinization and rapid healthy growth of the cell matrix.
Hops (Humulus lupulus) Extract - Perennial herb native to Eurasia and North America. Reported biological properties include antimicrobial activities, hydrophobic (attracts moisture), soothing, sedative, and skin softening.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein - Protein derived from wheat germ that dissolves in water. High in vitamin E and known to offer regeneration, antiaging, and emollient benefits.
Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium hyaluronate) - Present in human and animal connective tissue and belongs to the group of mucopolysaccarides. Has strong moisture-binding properties and enhances skin smoothness and suppleness. Naturally-derived (biofermentation form soy) material.
Honey (Apis mellifera) - Sugar secretions collected in honeycomb by honeybees has antibacterial and humectant properties. It is also used to soothe dermal lesions. It is also a colorant and flavoring.
Horsechestnut (Aesulus hippocastanum) Extract - From the seeds, fruit and bark of the tree. Used in Europe for eczema, varicose veins, soft tissue swelling. In skin formulations it is found to be decongesting and purifying.
Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) Extract - Also known as Shavegrass; silica. Considered to have strengthening and regenerating effect on connective tissue. In Germany, it is used to treat edema (fluid) conditions after trauma along with bacterial and inflammatory conditions.
Hydrolyzed Elastin - Natural scleroprotein (fibrous), it contains 10% of a high molecular weight elastin hydrolysate. Has high affinity to skin and hair. Adheres to tissues and protects them from environmental factors. A bio-extract.
Imidazolidinyl Urea - Most commonly used cosmetic preservative after the parabens. Colorless, odorless and tasteless substance employed in cosmetic and body care products such as baby shampoos, lotions, moisturizers and rouges.
Ivy (Hedera helix) Extract - Obtained from the leaves and branches. In addition to glycosides and saponins, ivy contains a number of mineral substances and trace elements. Known for toning and tightening thus used in silhouetting products. Beneficial in oily skin preparations.
Jasmine Absolute (Jasminum officinale) - Evergreen or deciduous shrub with fragrant flowers. Aroma chemicals of jasmine essence(absolute) have been reported to number more than 100. Soothes, calms and gently stimulates the skin. Beneficial to dry and sensitive skin.
Jojoba (Buxus chinensis) Oils - Expressed or extracted form the seeds of the desert shrub. Emollient ester with excellent spreading, lubricating and penetrating qualities. Used in pharmaceutical preparations to treat eczema, acne and dandruff. Seeds are rich in protein. Excellent for hair and scalp conditioning and is known to be useful in oily skin preparations. Unlike other oils, it is not a triglyceride fat
Kelp (Macrocystis pyriferae) - Pacific marine plant rich in iodine and minerals.
KiKui Nut - Extracted from the Kikui Nut tree in Hawaii. Rich in vitamins and helps to revitalize and protect the skin.
Kaolin (China Clay) - Aids in the covering ability of face powder and in absorbing oil. Aluminum silicate that is a white or yellowish, white mass or powder, insoluble in water and rendered harmless to the skin. Used in face masques, foundation and bath powders.
Labdanum (Cistus labdaniferus) Oil - Obtained from the sticky and fragrant Mediterranean region shrub bearing white flowers. Sometimes refered to as synthetic musk. Used as an astringent, stimulant, and hemostatic and as a fragrance component.
Lavandin - A hardy, European hybrid of true Lavender and spike Lavender. Essential oil is obtained form the flowering tops of the plant. Properties: analgesic, antiseptic, vulnerary (healing), soothing. Not as sedative as true Lavender.
Lithothamnium calcareum - Red seaweed harvested off the coast of Brittany. Has remificated branches with a stone consistency due its high calcium content. Contains calcium carbonates, magnesium carbonates and oligo (mineral) elements. Considered to be highly remineralizing and stimulating.
Linden (Tilia cordata) Extract - Obtained form the flowers of the lime tree of basswood. Valued for its excellent emollient, softening, soothing and brightening properties.
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citrates) Oil - Distilled from two species of cultivated fresh grass originating in India. Has antiseptic, and stimulating properties. Relieves pain in aching muscles. Tones and tightens the skin. Known to clear acne and balance oily conditions.
Lady's Mantel Extract - Prepared by steam distillation from the blossoming herbs. Contains soothing properties.
Laminaria Digitata - These seaweed are particularly rich in glucides (50-65%); mannitol (12-15%), condensed polysaccharides (80%). Laminaria are characterized by their abundance in mineral elements more precisely iodine. Contain concentrations of vitamins and pro-vitamins as mucin, riboflavine, vitamin D, and carotenoids. Polysaccharides reveal thickening important water retention capacity. Known for their revitalizing, detoxifying, haemostatic, antibacterial and remineralizing properties.
Lanolin - Obtained from the wax found in sleep wool after shearing. Excellent emollient, emulsifier, skin lubricant and protectant capable of absorbing water in an amount equal to 50% of its weight. Rich in cholesterol and other skin sterols. Chemically a wax instead of a fat and contains about 25-30% water. Rich in cholesterol and other skin-friendly sterols.
Lauramidopropyl Betaine - Mild, conditioning surfactant.
Lavender (Lavandula officinalis) Extract - Considered the most odorous of lavender varieties. Contains sedative and pain relieving qualities. Reported to promote growth of new cells and exerts a balancing action on sebum. Has a healing effect on bums and helpful in the treatment of acne. Eczema and psoriasis.
Lavender (Lavandula officinalis) Oil - Derived from the flowers by steam distillation. The name comes from the Latin "lavare", to wash, reflecting the fact that ancient Romans scented their baths with lavender flowers.
Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) Extract - Perennial herb native to Eurasia containing Glycyrrhizin (potassium and calcium salt, natural cortisone, liquiritin, iso-liquiritin, glycyrramarin, glucose and sucrose. In tropical skin care, studies have shown it to be a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, natural whitener and UVA absorber.
Lemon (Citrus medica limonum) Extract - Obtained from the citrus lemon tree. Contains essential oils, pectin, organic and amino acids. Celebrated for its toning, cleansing, purifying and brightening properties. Used in oily skin care preparations.
Liposome - Vesicle that forms when phospholipids hydrate in water. Can be loaded with either oil-soluble or water-soluble ingredients. Easily penetrate the skin delivering moisture, nutrients and other captured ingredients to the targeted site.
Lotus Extract - Solitary water lily that grows several feet from the water. The starchy powder derived from the large rhizomes is used in cosmetics to provide emolliency and soothing benefits.
Macadamia Nut Oil - Emollient oil derived from the nut of a small evergreen tree rich in essential fatty acids. Easily absorbed by the skin. Smoothes dry, flaky skin.
Magnesium Sulfate - Epson salts
Mineral - Inorganic substance occurring in its natural state. Usually salts and oxides considered essential for humans.
Mushroom Extract - Emollient lipid (oil-soluble) fraction of mushrooms
Methylparaben - Preservative that has a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity and is relatively non-irritating, non-sensitizing and non-poisonous. Stable over acid-alkalinity range of most cosmetics and sufficiently soluble in water to produce the effective concentration in the water phase.
Mandarin (Citrus madurensis) Oil - Pressed oil obtained from the fruit of the Mandarin tree originating in China. Has an uplifting, refreshing aroma. Seems to have a revitalizing and strengthening effect. When combined with Neroli and Lavender it is said to lessen stretch marks and scarring.
Mango Butter - Native to India for more than 4000 years. Rich in vitamins. When topically applied, it presents emollient, exfoliative and tonifying properties. Mango helps moisturize and support the desquamation of dead skin cells.
Menthol - Crystalline substance, with characteristically sharp, reviving fragrance contained in peppermint oil, in Japanese mint oil and, in small quantities, in geranium oil. Has a cooling, refreshing and antiseptic effect.
Milk Protein - Obtained from cow's milk. Softens and hydrates to create healthier looking skin.
Mint - See Peppermint, Spearmint.
Neroli Oil (Citrus aurantium/vulgaris) - Derived from the white flower of the bitter Seville orange. One of the finest flower essences with a soothing, delicately floral note. Primary alcohol used in perfumes. Occurs naturally in oil of lavender, mandarin blossom, lemon blossom, orange leaf, palmarosa oil, rose, neroli and oil of pettigrain. Colorless with the ordor of rose. Reported to help skin cell regeneration and improve elasticity. Soothing to dry, mature skin.
Niacinamide - White or yellow crystalline, odorless powder used to treat a vitamin deficiency disease. Used as a skin stimulant. Known as vitamin B3
Olive Leaf Extract (Olea europaea) - Emollient extract rich in tocopherol and phytosterol
Oat (Avena satvia ) Extract - An emollient extract of the seed of oats. A beta glucan. Oat extracts are renowned for stimulating collagen synthesis. They contain properties that act as a moisture barrier, improve the skin's viscoelasticity, reduce hyperpigmentation due to photo damage, and promote cellular turnover.
OPC-50 European Grape Seed Extract - Certain species of grape that have stronger antioxidant properties than others. When tested, it was found to have some of the highest free radical scavenging abilities.
Oat Flour - Light, yellowish powder from the cereal grain. Obtained by grinding oats from which the husks have been removed. Contains both natural whole protein and lipid material. Known for its soothing effect on the skin and its ability to absorb oils. Renders the skin feeling silky smooth.
Olive (Olea europaea) Oil - Pale yellow or greenish fixed oil obtained from ripe olives from the Mediterranean Sea area. An emollient in skin care products. Highly compatible to the skin having great penetrable qualities. Contains qualane that promotes smoothness to the skin by relieving dryness and roughness. Protects the skin from water loss.
Orange (Citrus auratium dulcis) Flower Water - From orange oil; takes 1000 pounds of this flower from the sweet orange tree to yield a single pound of oil; has natural buffers with gentle deep cleansing action.
Orange (Citrus aurantium dulcis) Oil - Yellow to deep orange in color. Highly volatile, unstable liquid with a characteristic orange taste and odor expressed from the fresh peel of the ripe fruit of the sweet orange plant. In aromatherapy, it is highly effective against cellulite. Skin circulation is encouraged and dimpled, rough, dry skin is repaired. An expectorant, in perfumery soaps and flavorings.
Orange Roughy Oil - Obtained from the subcutaneous fats of the Australian orange roughy fish containing a liquid wax ester often compared to jojoba oil. Superior in spreadability and skin-softening.
PEG-100 Stearate - Hydrophilic emulsifier and viscosity modifier in crèmes, lotions, shampoos and suntan products
Phytonadione - Vitamin K. Treats bleeding disorders due to vitamin K deficiency. Fat soluble vitamin. Used for severe burns or injuries.
Primrose - See Evening Primorse.
Paraffin - Colorless or white, odorless, greasy, solid mixture of hydrocarbons obtained from the distillate of wood, coal, petroleum or shale oil. Used in solid brilliantines, cold crèmes, wax depilatories, eyelash crèmes and oils. Used for extracting perfumes from flowers.
Polysorbate-80 (PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate) - Water- loving emulsifier used to solubilize essential oils, fragrances, flavors and natural oils in aqueous systems. Serves as a co-emulsifier for oils and waxes.
Propylene Glycol - Aliphatic alcohol serving as a humectant in skin products and a solvent for preservatives(parabens), essential oils, flavors and fragrances. Used to prepare herbal extracts.
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate - Polyethylene glycol ether of glyceryl cocoate. Mild self-emusifying emollient and cleanser. It has a place in both cleanser products as well as sunscreen products. Known to improve the softness of the skin.
Panthenol - Active, biologically stable from of pantothenic acid known as B5 in nutritional preparations. Plays an important role in keratinizing the epidermis, hair and nails. Panthenol is known to stimulate formation of new cells and has healing and anti-inflammatory effects. In skin preparations it imparts a silky smooth skin feeling and is effective against irritations.
Papain ( Carica papaya) - Collected from the green fruit. It
is sulfhydryl protease and has the ability to digest dead tissue with
out affecting the surrounding live tissue. Internally, it is used as
a digestive acid. On the skin, it removes dead skin and used as a clarifying
agent.
Pearl Powder - Found in certain mollusks, including oysters, clams and mussels, the powder is mostly calcium carbonate. Earliest Chinese use dates back to 500 A.D. when it was considered to have tranquilizing, vision-brightening, detoxifying and healing properties. It was considered beneficial to the skin since it removed facial dark spots making one's skin smooth and young looking.
Pellitory (Parietara officinalis) Extract - Obtained from leaves and stems of the plant. Rich in mineral salts (potassium nitrate), flavanoids, tannins and amino acids. Known for its emollient and purifying qualities.
Peppermint (Mentha piperita) Oil - Obtained from the dried leaves through steam distillation. Used as a flavoring.
Pine Cone (Pinus sylvestris) Extract - Extract that contain resins, pine oil, flavanoids, tannis and amino acids. Used for its tonic, reviving and skin softening properties.
Placental Enzyme - Enzyme mixture obtained from aqueous extract of bovine placentas. Prized for its revitalizing and regenerating effect on the skin.
Pollen Extract - Obtained from pure bee pollen. Contains essential oils beneficial to the skin.
Red Seaweed - See Lithothamnium Calcareum.
Retinyl Palmitate - Ester of vitamin A and palmitic acid. Valued for its regenerating properties. (See Vitamin A)
Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis) Oil - Obtained by steam distillation of the flowering tops. Strong, both herbal and medicinal smelling essential oil. Warms, revives and invigorates the skin.
Raspberry Extract - Obtained from the fresh or dried leaves and fruit. An astringent and nutritive estrogenic herb.
Revitalin BT - Conjugated glycopolypeptides (glycoproteins). Proven to dramatically enhance cellular metabolism. Boots oxygen consumption of cells and oxygen content of the skin. Its revitalizing capacity strengthens the skin's natural ability to protect itself against damaging environmental influences.
Ribonucleic Acid (RNA) - Found in both the nucleus and cytoplasm of the cell. Contains direaction for DNA. In skin care formulations it reinforces the superficial skin cohesion and assists in moisture retention. Marine Origin.
Rice Bran Oil - Natural, emollient oil expressed from rice bran.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Extract - Obtained from the dried leaves of small evergreen shrub. Reported to have antimicrobial activities. Usedin bath and skin preparations as an external stimulant for increased blood supply to the skin. Rosemary has been reported used in cancers and is considered a natural source of antioxidants. It is a sebum regulator.
Royal Jelly - Milky white, viscous substance secreted by the pharyngeal glands of the worker bee (honey bee). In skin products it is reported to have invigorating, nourishing, strengthening and skin whitening properties.
Spearmint (Mentha viridis) Extract - Dried tops and leaves. Brewed for a refreshing, invigorating, fragrant herbal tea.
Sodium PCA - Sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidone-5-pyrrolidone-5-caboxylic acid. Naturally occurring component of human skin believed to be in part responsible for its moisture binding capacity. Highly water absorbing and at high humidity dissolves in its own water hydration. Excellent humectant and emollient.
Sandalwood (Santalum album) Oil - Obtained from the leaves of a small evergreen tree native to Australia, China and the East Indies. Reported to have diuretic and urinary antiseptic and antifungal properties. Used as a fragrance ingredient in soaps and cosmetics.
Sodium Sesquicarbonate - Water-soluble, white crystals, flakes or power produced form sodium carbonate. Used as an alkalizer in baths salts, shampoos, tooth powders and soaps.
Sorbitol - Hexahydric alcohol first found in ripe berries of mountain ash and other fruits; occurs in seaweed and algae. Humectant that gives a velvety feel to the skin. It is used as a replacement for glycerin in emulsions, ointments, mouthwashes, dental crèmes and various cosmetic crèmes. Also used in hair sprays, beauty masques, cuticle removers, liquid powders and deodorants.
Sodium Chloride - Common table salt. Used as an astringent and antiseptic that consists of opaque white crystals that are odorless and absorb water. Used in mouth washes, dentrices, bubble baths, soap, and bath salts.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate - Sodium salt of sulfated ethoxylated lauryl alcohol. High-foaming, viscous surfactant. It is excellent cleansing agent.
Seaweed - See Laminaria Digitata, Fucus, Lithothamnium Calcareum
Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) Oil - Expressed from the seed that primarily consists of triglycerides of lineolic acid. Emollient oil with a high content of unsaturated fats, which makes penetration easy.
Sage (Salvia officinalis) Extract - Small, evergreen shrubby perennial with woody stems. Reportedly has antibacterial, fungistatic, virustatic, astringent, antispasmodic and perspiration-inhibiting (diaphoretic) effects. Can serve as a source of natural antioxidants.
Salicylic Acid - A beta hydroxy acid, salicylic is a fat soluble component that exfoliates at the stratum corneum level of the skin. Obtained from willow bark, wintergreen leaves, sweet birch and other plants.
Sambucus Canadensis Extract - Derived from a tall bush found in Europe (Sambucus nigra) - sweet elder and North America (S. Canadensis) - American elderberry. In skin care it has an exceptionally fortifying effect (astringent) on the epidermis and increases the skin's defense system.
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii) - Fat obtained from the nut of the Karite tree by cold pressing. Has valuable skin conditioning, smoothing and protection properties. Possesses excellent penetration, re-lubricating and moisture-binding properties.
Silicone Oils - Surface active, they can be applied to the skin in an ultra-sheer film without leaving an oily residue, and are highly skin compatible. Impart an especially silky, supple feeling to the skin. See dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone.
Sodium Hyaluronate - Sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Superb, naturally-occurring humectant polymer with excellent slip and skin feel. Hyaluronic acid is naturally in the body. It is the "goo" in the eye and the lubricating agent in the joints. Known for its ability to hold water; one molecule of hyaluronic acid hold 1000 times its weight in the water.
Soya (Glycine soja) Oil (soybean oil unsaponfiables) - Pale yellow oil, obtained by pressing soybeans. Composed mostly of triglycerides of oleic, lineolic, linolenic and saturated acids. Highly compatible to the skin, an emollient, and the prime source of natural vitamin E. Effective against lipid peroxidation and the formation of tree radicals.
Squalane - Found in small quantities in many vegetable oils (olive),
and in larger amounts in certain fish oils (squalene). Found in human
sebaceous secretions, as a precursor of cholesterol. Principal hydrocarbon
of human surface lipids.
Sulfur - Naturally occurring element constituting .05% of the earth's crust. Mild antiseptic used in anti-dandruff shampoos, dusting powders, ointments and permanent wave solutions. Also used in hair tonics, acne crèmes and lotions, and as a stimulant to healing when used on skin rashes.
Silica (Silicon Dioxide S1011) - Inorganic oxide occurring in nature. Used in maques for its toning properties.
Sesame (Sesamum indicum) Oil - Light, emollient oil obtained from the seeds.
Sweet Almond Oil - Colorless or pale yellow liquid expressed from the seeds of the plant. Highly emollient oil used in skin care products.
Tomato (Lycopersicum esculentum) Extract - Emollient lipid (oil soluble) fraction of tomato rich in phytosterol and tocopherol. Know to be a sebum regulator. Used in anti-acne preparations.
Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) Oil - Also known as Cajeput oil. Has been known for treatment of acne vulgaris. There have been claims for treatments on burns, sunburn, pimples, boils, stings, ringworm, sore throat, oral infections, rheumatism, aching muscles and skin diseases.
Thyme (Thymus vellums) Oil - Distilled from the flowering tips and leaves of the evergreen subshrub. Thyme oil and thymol have been demonstrated to have antioxidative activities. Known to have detoxifying, toning and healing effect on oily, problematic skin.
Titanium Dioxide (T102) - Inorganic oxide occurring in nature that is brilliant white in color with many times the covering power of zinc oxide. Used as a white pigment, opacifier and absorbent.
Turmeric (Curcuma longa) - Perennial herb of the ginger family. Demonstrated to have anti-inflammatory and antiarthritic activities. Used for dyspeptic conditions. Also used for skin diseases, fragrance and colorant.
Tocopheryl Acetate - Ester of tocopherol and acetic acid. See Vitamin E.
Vitamin B3 - See Niacinamide
Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) Extract - Obtained from the pod of a perennial herbaceous vine. Flavoring agent.
Vitamin - An organic (carbon-containing) required in very small amounts to promote one or several specific and essential biochemical reactions within the living cell; prolonged deficiencies of a vitamin cause diseases which are quickly remedied when the vitamin is supplied once again.
Vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) - Designated as an epithelium protecting factor. Regulates skin hornification, promotes cell regeneration, encourages mitosis (healthy growth and renewal of skin cells) and prevents atrophy in aging skin. Essential for proper formation of the body's tissues; especially the skin, mucous membranes, anything that lines the inside of the body. Deficiency of vitamin A can lead to follicular hyperkeratosis (flakiness); keratin deposits in the pores of the skin; may look like hard goose bumps; dry scaly and rough. Especially effective when used with vitamin E. Fat soluble.
Vitamin B5 - See Panthenol
Vitamin C - Necessary for proper formation of collagen, the primary constituent of bone, cartilage, and connective tissue. Important for growth and repair of tissue cells, gums, blood vessels, bones, teeth and for absorption of iron. When topically applied, is a powerful anti-oxidant and protects the skin's immune system. Supports collagen synthesis and shows firming of the skin.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol D-Alpha) - Vitamin E protects the linoleic fatty acids from oxidation making them active. Enhances elasticity of the connective tissue and is important for collagen metabolism in the epidermis. Improves cell's metabolism and increases skin's ability to hold moisture. Has a normalizing influence on the micro-circulation. An antioxidant for premature aging; it develops a biochemical protective effect against the free radicals. Has moisture-retention properties and smoothes the skin surface. Frequently used with vitamin A. Fat soluble.
Witch Hazel ( Hammalelis virginiana) Extract - Hydroglycerolic medium, the extract is derived from witch hazel leaf or bark. Has moisture-binding effect and a high tannin content giving astringent, hemostatic, anti-inflammatory and toning action.
Walnut (Juglans nigra) Shell Power - Finely ground walnut shell used as a natural abrasive for exfoliation.
Willowherb (Epilobium agusti folium) - Plant of the evening-primrose family found mainly in northern Canadian forests. The array of sitosterol, flavonoid and polysaccharide contents creates a protective film on the skin. Research also indicates it is antimicrobial and a tyrosinase inhibitor (a skin lightener).
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) Extract - Perennial herb. Reported to be anti-inflammatory and traditionally used as a tonic, carminative, antispasmodic, astringent and hemostatic. In China it is recommended for sores and wounds.
Yeast Beta Glucan - See Beta Glucan
Yeast Cell Derivative - Obtained from the cell wall of yeast. Known to promote wound healing by increasing fibroblast synthesis of collagen and elastin. Acts as an internal moisturizer and smoothes the skin.
Ylang Ylang (Canaga odorata) Oil - Obtained form steam distillation of fresh flower of the tree. Extensively used as a fragrance.
